Subject: From Roger Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 07:38:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Roger Mingle To: carnut@carnut.com Pic#31 Raised the frame back up & ready to clean & grind everything we have been cutting. Pic#32 Cleaned & ground smooth & back together ready to weld. Notice the centerline mark on the frame. There is anouther mark 1" forward of this. I like to move the subframe 1" forward as it makes the wheel fit more centered in the fender opening. Notice the C-clamp by the idler arm. The bottom of the frame sits on the rear bisket mount. About 2-1/4" of frame rail above the front bisket mount. Pic#33 Start welding it up. I weld all down the inside & then go down the outside. Dont put that steering box on till you are finished welding. Pic#34 Might be a little hard to steer. Pic#35 Weld everything you can reach. Pic#36 Make a 1/4" steel plate to weld inside the rails to make them boxed. Since the sub-frame is now the crossmember you need all the strength you can get. Once done on top weld everything up under. (love those sparks down your ears) Pic#37 Ready to grind & clean all the welds. Left that open space because thats the torsion bar adjuster & it needs room to move. Pic#38 Sitting on the ground, one low rider coming up. Pic#39-40 This is where the old fruit jar MC was. This is the Dodge MC that bolt right on the stock Ford location with the stock ford pushrod & petal assy. Too much freeplay but a different rubber bumper thkes care of that. Still has enough travel. Hopefully the longer petal of the ford will give enough leverage to make the disc brakes work right. --------------------------------------------------------------------- [Image] [Image] [Image] [Image] [Image] [Image] [Image] [Image] [Image] [Image]